Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting overlooking the Aegean has made it a landmark for centuries to boats sailing between Pireás and the islands. Its tremendous views and evocative Temple of Poseidon certainly impressed Byron – who carved his name on one of the pillars.
Athens’ public transport is good value, especially with judicious use of the various passes available. While most of the major sites are within walking distance of each other, the expansion of the metro means that it often makes more sense to jump on a train to go from, say, Omónia to Skndagma, than sweating it outon the streets. If you can figure out the bus and trolley system, it’s even cheaper to use them instead.The easiest and, for most visitors, best-value ticket is the 24-hour imerísio. This costs E2.90 and can be used on all buses, trolleybuses and the metro, as well as for a single trip to the airport. You validate it once, on starting your first journey, and it is valid for 24 hours from then – cancel it again if you take the airport bus. The ticket can be bought from any metro ticket office and many places where bus tickets are sold (see below) – you can buy several at once and then cancel them as necessary. There’s also a monthly pass for e35, or E17.50 for buses only.Otherwise, individual metro tickets cost e0.60 on Line 1 for journeys within two of its three zones (this will get you from the centre to either end of the line), e0.70 for any other journey (valid for ninety minutes from validation, for travel in one direction – ie you can change lines, but you can’t go somewhere and come back).They’re available from machines and ticket offices in any metro station, and must be validated before you start your journey, in the machines at the top of the stairs.Bus tickets cost e0.45 and must be bought in advance from kiosks, certain shops and newsagents, or from the limited number of booths run by bus personnel near major stops – look for the brown, red and white logo proclaiming Isitíria edhó (tickets here). They’re sold individually or in bundles of ten, and must be cancelled in a special machine when boarding. Cancelled tickets apply only to a particular journey and vehicle; there are no transfers.
On both bus and metro, fare-dodgers risk an on-the-spot fine equivalent to forty times the current fare.
Set amongst the massive crags of Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the site of the most important oracle in ancient Greece. Today, its awe- inspiring ruins and spectacular setting make it one of the most memorable excursions from Athens.
The Acropolis remains the city’sbiggest attraction. Dominating its southern slope is the restored second-century Roman Herodes Atticus Theatre, a spectacular setting for performances of music and Classical drama during the summer festival.
Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over 40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be
overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May toearly June, September and October – temperatures arepleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowerson the surrounding mountains. The winter months can be very cold, and February is often rainy.
In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two and-a-half thousand years ago, and it’s true that even now that past looms large – literally, in the shape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almost every view, as well as in every visitor’s itinerary. Yet Athens is also home to over four million people, mor than a third of the Greek population and is very much a city for the twenty-first century, one that has transformed itself for the 2004 Olympics.
For many, the stunning remains of the ancient Classical Greek city are the highlight of any visit.The National Archeological Museum has the finest col- lection of Greek antiquities in the world, and there areplenty of smaller specialist museums. Even on a briefvisit, however, it is a shame to see Athens purely as the repository of ancient sites and museum pieces. It’s worth taking the time to explore some of the city’s neighbourhoods: in partic-ular, the old nineteenth-century quarter of Plákahas a delightful mix of Turkish, Neoclassical and Greek island-style architec- ture and intriguing little museums devoted to tradi- tional arts, from ceramics to musical instruments.Here you’ll also encounter scattered relics of the Byzantine and medieval town that captivated Byron and the Romantics. Just to the north of Pláka, the bazaar area around Athinás and Eólou retains an almost Middle Eastern atmosphere, while the National Gardens and ele-
gant Kolonáki offer respite from the bustling city. Still well within the limits of Greater Athens are the peaceful monasteries of Kessarianí and Dhafní, the latter with Byzantine mosaics the equal of any in
Greece.
There are spectacular bird’ s-eye views from the central hills of Lykavitós and Filopáppou, whilemore adventurous walkers can head for the mountains that ring the city.Springtime hikes here
reveal the astonishing range of Greek wild flowers especially on the vast, largely unspoilt slopes of Mount Párnitha.
Outside the city itself you’ll find more ancient sites, while sunworship-
pers flock to the suburban beach resorts.There’ s the chance to escape to the islands, too, several of which can be reached from
the busy port of Pireás in just a couple of hours.
For some, however, the biggest surprise in Athens is the vibrant life of the city itself. Cafés are packed day and night, and the streets
stay lively until 3 or 4am, with some of the best bars
and clubs inthe country. Eating out is great, with establishments
ranging from lively tavernas to the finest gourmet restaurants. In summer much of the action takes place out- doors, com-plemented by open-airfilms, concert sand classical drama.The extraordinari-
ly diverse ly diverse shopping scene ranges from colour-ful bazaars and lively street markets to chic shopping malls filled with the latest
designer goods.And with a good-value public transport system – particularly the newly expanded metro –you’ll have no difficulty getting around.
Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting overlooking the Aegean has made it a landmark for centuries to boats sailing between Pireás and the islands. Its tremendous views and evocative Temple of Poseidon certainly impressed Byron – who carved his name on one of the pillars.
